just because.
2014年8月29日金曜日
matsuri (episode 1)
matsuri【祭り】
hiroshima has a good number of matsuri throughout the year. these lively events have less to do with the god or godlike being that the festival is held for, and more to do with the gathering of the community and having a good time, eating yatai food and wearing yukata or dancing the bon dance.
here are some local and prefectual-wide festivals in hiroshima city:
lots of yatai, which are street vendors that sell everything from food to toys to goldfish. we got some takoyaki (octopus dumplings?) and some taiyaki (fish shaped cakes with anko in the middle), which are standard fare for any matsuri. the place is milling with locals enjoying a beer and chatting with neighbors and friends.
mmm...octopus.
there's an altar with candles and incense surrounding a jizou statue. often translated as the "guardian deity of children", these jizou statues are often built at the site of tragic accidents or for stillborn children. they are also placed at city or village limits to protect the land and its inhabitants.
since i wasn't sure the implications of taking a picture of a jizou statue while a festival was being held in its honour, i didn't take a picture, but here's one i found on the web of a typical jizou statue.
(they almost always have red bibs around their necks)
next to the jizou statue was a stage where lots of different events were being held. high school bands, bingo games, and kagura, which is a type of "shinto theatrical dance" (thanks wiki!). basically, ancient myths and folklore are acted out using song, dance, and dialogue with ridiculously elaborate costumes and flashy movement. the music is all traditional japanese instruments -- high pitched flutes and drums of all ranges, working together at fever pitch during the intense fight scenes, or quietly giving rhythm to the performers' speech...not like i could understand the bulk of what was being said since it's in like old-school japanese, but that's beside the point. the point is, it's hella entertaining -- this was actually my first time seeing live kagura and i have to say, i was enchanted. there are still lots of kagura-dan or kagura groups that are active in northern hiroshima and shimane prefecture (just north of hiroshima prefecture), and if given the chance, i would LOVE to see another performance.
what struck me most about this festival was the sheer locality of it. kawahara-machi is by no means a huge part of the city. there were likely 50 people there, at best, and all of them residents of the area. parents talking to parents while kids run about with plastic masks or glow sticks, elderly residents watching kagura with their grandkids, middle school girls moving in herds while snacking on kara-age (fried chicken)... it's just a great way to unite the community, if only for two days, and a great excuse to go outside and enjoy the (relative) cool of summer nights in hiroshima.
hiroshima has a good number of matsuri throughout the year. these lively events have less to do with the god or godlike being that the festival is held for, and more to do with the gathering of the community and having a good time, eating yatai food and wearing yukata or dancing the bon dance.
here are some local and prefectual-wide festivals in hiroshima city:
ebisu-kou 【えびす講】
touka-san 【とうかさん】
flower festival 【フラワーフェスティバル】
zenzai matsuri 【ぜんざい祭り】
sorasaya-inari jinja matsuri 【空鞘稲荷神社祭り】
kawahara-machi jizou-son【河原町地蔵尊】
there are likely more, and i also don't have all the proper names, but these are the main matsuri going down in hiroshima city and in the dobashi/tokaichi area (where i happen to be centered).
today we'll be looking at the kawahara-machi jizou-son matsuri, held in late august.
summer festivals are great -- bon dancing and yatai under the chouchin (paper lantern) light.
we were apparently too late for the bon dance -- which is a simple dance that involves moving around in a circle around a large tower-thing where taiko drums are being played. was looking forward to getting some pictures, but alas. summer festivals are also great places to wear yukata (light summer kimono), and i did see some people dressed in them here. but then again, this is a really small festival, taking up maybe 3 blocks of the street for the weekend. here's a look at the main road:
there are likely more, and i also don't have all the proper names, but these are the main matsuri going down in hiroshima city and in the dobashi/tokaichi area (where i happen to be centered).
today we'll be looking at the kawahara-machi jizou-son matsuri, held in late august.
summer festivals are great -- bon dancing and yatai under the chouchin (paper lantern) light.
we were apparently too late for the bon dance -- which is a simple dance that involves moving around in a circle around a large tower-thing where taiko drums are being played. was looking forward to getting some pictures, but alas. summer festivals are also great places to wear yukata (light summer kimono), and i did see some people dressed in them here. but then again, this is a really small festival, taking up maybe 3 blocks of the street for the weekend. here's a look at the main road:
there's an altar with candles and incense surrounding a jizou statue. often translated as the "guardian deity of children", these jizou statues are often built at the site of tragic accidents or for stillborn children. they are also placed at city or village limits to protect the land and its inhabitants.
since i wasn't sure the implications of taking a picture of a jizou statue while a festival was being held in its honour, i didn't take a picture, but here's one i found on the web of a typical jizou statue.
(they almost always have red bibs around their necks)
next to the jizou statue was a stage where lots of different events were being held. high school bands, bingo games, and kagura, which is a type of "shinto theatrical dance" (thanks wiki!). basically, ancient myths and folklore are acted out using song, dance, and dialogue with ridiculously elaborate costumes and flashy movement. the music is all traditional japanese instruments -- high pitched flutes and drums of all ranges, working together at fever pitch during the intense fight scenes, or quietly giving rhythm to the performers' speech...not like i could understand the bulk of what was being said since it's in like old-school japanese, but that's beside the point. the point is, it's hella entertaining -- this was actually my first time seeing live kagura and i have to say, i was enchanted. there are still lots of kagura-dan or kagura groups that are active in northern hiroshima and shimane prefecture (just north of hiroshima prefecture), and if given the chance, i would LOVE to see another performance.
what struck me most about this festival was the sheer locality of it. kawahara-machi is by no means a huge part of the city. there were likely 50 people there, at best, and all of them residents of the area. parents talking to parents while kids run about with plastic masks or glow sticks, elderly residents watching kagura with their grandkids, middle school girls moving in herds while snacking on kara-age (fried chicken)... it's just a great way to unite the community, if only for two days, and a great excuse to go outside and enjoy the (relative) cool of summer nights in hiroshima.
quirky japan (episode 1)
one of japan's big tourism catchphrases, or "catch copy" as they say here, is "cool japan" ...
yeah, WOW, give that guy a promotion for creativity, right?
i'm not saying that japan isn't cool, because it is. i mean, c'mon, cellphone service companies building talking robots for sale? frickkin' cool.
but i've got a better catchphrase that really captures japan's essence --
quirky japan
that's right my friends, japan is a quirky place. endearingly quirky, annoyingly quirky, maddeningly quirky -- it's got its quirky bases covered.
you could easily write an ENTIRE blog focused solely on japan's quirks -- but i'm just going to write them as i think of them. and today, i present to you one of the annoying quirks---
the four seasons quirk
if you're ever in japan for longer than say...a week...inevitably you're going to encounter the following phrase, be it on TV or someone on the street or passing conversation:
「日本には四季がある！」
nihon ni wa shiki ga aru!
translation: they have four seasons in japan!
...uh...
duh?
i dunno, i always thought that NOT having four seasons was more an exception than the rule. i mean, i know there are indeed countries that don't have four seasons, but... is it really so unique to have a spring, summer, fall, and winter?
you'll be told about japan's four seasons like it's some great enlightening secret.
DUDE, FOUR SEASONS. FOUR DIFFERENT SEASONS. IS YOUR MIND BLOWN?!
...nope. why do you think they have words for these mystical four seasons in (likely) most every language?
*whispers* that's because most everyone has four seasons on the planet.
japan LOVES the seasons -- i don't blame them, i like them too! i'm not hating on the seasons, i'm just baffled as to why they feel the need to tell foreigners about them because we obviously don't know (even though most of us do).
japan does indeed have a long history of using seasonal icons in poetry, letters, art... like cherry blossoms in the spring, hydrangeas during the rainy season, maple leaves in the fall, etc, and that's all well and good. in fact, i think it's great to celebrate and appreciate the seasons (even if they have gotten a little weird in recent years).
but it's just a little silly to go around with a figurative banner proclaiming to the masses that OMG JAPAN HAS FOUR SEASONS GUYZ~!
it's okay, japan. you can put away the banner, go on. the secret's out.
yeah, WOW, give that guy a promotion for creativity, right?
i'm not saying that japan isn't cool, because it is. i mean, c'mon, cellphone service companies building talking robots for sale? frickkin' cool.
but i've got a better catchphrase that really captures japan's essence --
quirky japan
that's right my friends, japan is a quirky place. endearingly quirky, annoyingly quirky, maddeningly quirky -- it's got its quirky bases covered.
you could easily write an ENTIRE blog focused solely on japan's quirks -- but i'm just going to write them as i think of them. and today, i present to you one of the annoying quirks---
the four seasons quirk
if you're ever in japan for longer than say...a week...inevitably you're going to encounter the following phrase, be it on TV or someone on the street or passing conversation:
「日本には四季がある！」
nihon ni wa shiki ga aru!
translation: they have four seasons in japan!
...uh...
duh?
i dunno, i always thought that NOT having four seasons was more an exception than the rule. i mean, i know there are indeed countries that don't have four seasons, but... is it really so unique to have a spring, summer, fall, and winter?
you'll be told about japan's four seasons like it's some great enlightening secret.
DUDE, FOUR SEASONS. FOUR DIFFERENT SEASONS. IS YOUR MIND BLOWN?!
...nope. why do you think they have words for these mystical four seasons in (likely) most every language?
*whispers* that's because most everyone has four seasons on the planet.
japan LOVES the seasons -- i don't blame them, i like them too! i'm not hating on the seasons, i'm just baffled as to why they feel the need to tell foreigners about them because we obviously don't know (even though most of us do).
japan does indeed have a long history of using seasonal icons in poetry, letters, art... like cherry blossoms in the spring, hydrangeas during the rainy season, maple leaves in the fall, etc, and that's all well and good. in fact, i think it's great to celebrate and appreciate the seasons (even if they have gotten a little weird in recent years).
but it's just a little silly to go around with a figurative banner proclaiming to the masses that OMG JAPAN HAS FOUR SEASONS GUYZ~!
it's okay, japan. you can put away the banner, go on. the secret's out.
2014年8月27日水曜日
review: le triskel
yesterday was my birthday and also 5 year wedding anniversary. yay!
as such, husband made reservations at le triskel, a french restaurant listed in the hiroshima michelin guide (listed, not rated). i'd seen the place before and had had my eye on it, but completely forgot until we actually arrived.
it's on the second floor of an old building in nobori-machi. the interior is well-lit with about 5~6 tables. lunch is course only (i think there were 3 courses to choose from, varying in price) -- he reserved the gourmand course, ranging from amuse bouche to dessert. here's the run-down.
amuse bouche
foie gras crème brûlée
beneath a crunchy layer of bittersweet burnt sugar lies a thick, yet light foie gras mousse. the combination of sugar and salt was great -- it was unlike anything i've tasted to date, that's for sure. there was also a hint of rum in the mousse, which just added to the overall taste experience.
second course (salad)
kadaif-wrapped hamo (daggertooth pike conger... what?) with zucchini fondant and red pepper sauce
hamo is a popular...fish? conger? ingredient. to use in the summer in japan. it's very much like a light white fish in texture, melting in your mouth. by wrapping it in crunchy kadaif, it gives a kick to the hamo in the texture department. the vegetables in this salad are local and very flavourful -- they're also kept as raw as possible, even the kabocha squash is raw (which i haven't had before -- crunchy!). really goes to show you how much faith they have in their vegetables. the zucchini fondant was also a first for me -- it was light, like a mousse, and captured the flavor of zucchini along with vegetable stock to give it a slightly salty punch. the sweet red pepper sauce and extra-virgin olive oil drizzled alongside brought a refreshing sweetness to the whole salad.
third course (fish)
komatsuna or "japanese mustard spinach" is a leafy green vegetable that i kinda associated with having a bitter taste. so i was a little wary of the rich green sauce -- but of course, i was wrong. but first, beef cheeks!
beef cheeks, or hoho-niku, are one of my favorite cuts of beef. admittedly, it's a pain in the ass to prepare since you have to stew it for a long time to make it tender and delicious, but when it's done right (and it was), it's just gorgeous. thick cut and tender, you could cut it in half using your fork -- no need for knives with this little beauty -- the meat was so tender it was practically falling off by itself. the sweetness of the red wine paired with a salty tones of the komatsuna sauce brought out the best in each other and i've hardly chewed the meat before it practically dissolves in my mouth.
the vegetables paired with the meat (broccoli, golden potato, red onion, toumyou or green pea sprouts) are all local grown and packed with flavor. toumyou has that earthy bean taste without being astringent, the broccoli was brilliantly and decidedly green in flavour, and the red onion was roasted perfectly, bringing its own sweetness to the plate. and that potato -- fried until slightly crisp with its own mild sweetness -- it went exceptionally with the sauce.
it was a meat lover's dream and a vegetable lover's dream at the same time.
fifth course (dessert)
terrine chocolat with mango sorbet and fresh fruits
because it was my birthday, they made a special dessert plate for me. brought out on a chilled stone plate, the first thing that catches your eye is that vibrant golden mango sorbet. underneath is terrine chocolat, which is like a rich and dense chocolate mousse. the intense sweetness of the mango sorbet (it was like eating mango puree, in a good way) accented the rich milky chocolate, and the raspberry sauce underneath it all provided just the right amount of sanmi ("acidic sourness" -- sourness?) to complement the sweetness.
they also wrote "bon anniversaire" on the plate in chocolate <3
an excellent and carefully prepared course using local ingredients well-deserving of its price.
i don't know what more you can ask for.
--------------------------------------------------------
le triskel
nobori-machi 5-7
naka-ku, hiroshima-shi
082-511-5031
as such, husband made reservations at le triskel, a french restaurant listed in the hiroshima michelin guide (listed, not rated). i'd seen the place before and had had my eye on it, but completely forgot until we actually arrived.
it's on the second floor of an old building in nobori-machi. the interior is well-lit with about 5~6 tables. lunch is course only (i think there were 3 courses to choose from, varying in price) -- he reserved the gourmand course, ranging from amuse bouche to dessert. here's the run-down.
amuse bouche
foie gras crème brûlée
beneath a crunchy layer of bittersweet burnt sugar lies a thick, yet light foie gras mousse. the combination of sugar and salt was great -- it was unlike anything i've tasted to date, that's for sure. there was also a hint of rum in the mousse, which just added to the overall taste experience.
second course (salad)
kadaif-wrapped hamo (daggertooth pike conger... what?) with zucchini fondant and red pepper sauce
hamo is a popular...fish? conger? ingredient. to use in the summer in japan. it's very much like a light white fish in texture, melting in your mouth. by wrapping it in crunchy kadaif, it gives a kick to the hamo in the texture department. the vegetables in this salad are local and very flavourful -- they're also kept as raw as possible, even the kabocha squash is raw (which i haven't had before -- crunchy!). really goes to show you how much faith they have in their vegetables. the zucchini fondant was also a first for me -- it was light, like a mousse, and captured the flavor of zucchini along with vegetable stock to give it a slightly salty punch. the sweet red pepper sauce and extra-virgin olive oil drizzled alongside brought a refreshing sweetness to the whole salad.
third course (fish)
koshoudai (crescent sweetlips, which, btw, is a GREAT name for a fish) and scallop sauté (the scallop is underneath -- i really should have gotten a better picture of it. why? you'll see) in a white wine sauce.
first, the koshoudai. the skin was perfectly crisp and the flesh was tender -- not overcooked, not undercooked, just the right amount of ...hagotae.
damn it, hagotae is one of those words that i really can't put into one english word. it means like when you bite into something, it has just the right ...density? consistency? so that you feel like you're biting into something (as opposed to having it like...mush in your mouth) but it's not like you're biting in rubber or something unbelievably hard.
it's really easy to ruin white fish when you sauté it, but they nailed it.
but the star of this show is NOT the koshoudai, it's the scallop.
had i had known how life-changing this scallop was going to be, i would have taken more pictures because OMG BEST SCALLOP EVER.
it was actually "compliments of the chef" because it was my birthday, but sweet holy moses, might be one of the best gifts i've ever gotten. the scallop was sautéed in butter, the top slightly crisp and browned. i cut it in half -- the center is still slightly raw so that the scallop has just the right amount of hagotae when you bite into it: soft, yet firm. it's incredibly flavourful --- i would guess that these aren't frozen scallops, but raw ones (i didn't ask -- i should have). you can taste the ocean when you close your eyes, and then the butter hits, the wine sauce hits, and it's like this beautiful explosion of seafood.
life. changing. scallop.
that's all there is to it.
fourth course (meat)
beef cheek red wine ragu with komatsuna sauce
damn it, hagotae is one of those words that i really can't put into one english word. it means like when you bite into something, it has just the right ...density? consistency? so that you feel like you're biting into something (as opposed to having it like...mush in your mouth) but it's not like you're biting in rubber or something unbelievably hard.
it's really easy to ruin white fish when you sauté it, but they nailed it.
but the star of this show is NOT the koshoudai, it's the scallop.
had i had known how life-changing this scallop was going to be, i would have taken more pictures because OMG BEST SCALLOP EVER.
it was actually "compliments of the chef" because it was my birthday, but sweet holy moses, might be one of the best gifts i've ever gotten. the scallop was sautéed in butter, the top slightly crisp and browned. i cut it in half -- the center is still slightly raw so that the scallop has just the right amount of hagotae when you bite into it: soft, yet firm. it's incredibly flavourful --- i would guess that these aren't frozen scallops, but raw ones (i didn't ask -- i should have). you can taste the ocean when you close your eyes, and then the butter hits, the wine sauce hits, and it's like this beautiful explosion of seafood.
life. changing. scallop.
that's all there is to it.
fourth course (meat)
beef cheek red wine ragu with komatsuna sauce
komatsuna or "japanese mustard spinach" is a leafy green vegetable that i kinda associated with having a bitter taste. so i was a little wary of the rich green sauce -- but of course, i was wrong. but first, beef cheeks!
beef cheeks, or hoho-niku, are one of my favorite cuts of beef. admittedly, it's a pain in the ass to prepare since you have to stew it for a long time to make it tender and delicious, but when it's done right (and it was), it's just gorgeous. thick cut and tender, you could cut it in half using your fork -- no need for knives with this little beauty -- the meat was so tender it was practically falling off by itself. the sweetness of the red wine paired with a salty tones of the komatsuna sauce brought out the best in each other and i've hardly chewed the meat before it practically dissolves in my mouth.
the vegetables paired with the meat (broccoli, golden potato, red onion, toumyou or green pea sprouts) are all local grown and packed with flavor. toumyou has that earthy bean taste without being astringent, the broccoli was brilliantly and decidedly green in flavour, and the red onion was roasted perfectly, bringing its own sweetness to the plate. and that potato -- fried until slightly crisp with its own mild sweetness -- it went exceptionally with the sauce.
it was a meat lover's dream and a vegetable lover's dream at the same time.
fifth course (dessert)
terrine chocolat with mango sorbet and fresh fruits
because it was my birthday, they made a special dessert plate for me. brought out on a chilled stone plate, the first thing that catches your eye is that vibrant golden mango sorbet. underneath is terrine chocolat, which is like a rich and dense chocolate mousse. the intense sweetness of the mango sorbet (it was like eating mango puree, in a good way) accented the rich milky chocolate, and the raspberry sauce underneath it all provided just the right amount of sanmi ("acidic sourness" -- sourness?) to complement the sweetness.
they also wrote "bon anniversaire" on the plate in chocolate <3
an excellent and carefully prepared course using local ingredients well-deserving of its price.
i don't know what more you can ask for.
--------------------------------------------------------
le triskel
nobori-machi 5-7
naka-ku, hiroshima-shi
082-511-5031
2014年8月23日土曜日
romen-densha
romen-densha 【路面電車】
hiroshima is a city of romen densha, or streetcars.
in fact, it's one of the few remaining cities with streetcars, as well as having the widest network. the trains run from hiroshima station, all the way out to miyajima, and branching out in all four directions.
the streetcars are run by hiroshima dentetsu, affectionately referred to as "hiroden" -- the hiroshima electric train company. there are 26 different types of streetcars, many of them older and retired streetcars from other cities that have been fixed up by hiroshima, that run on 9 different lines. it costs a flat-fare of 160 yen (for adults -- that's about $1.60), so no matter where you ride, the price doesn't change. convenient, right? for those who don't like fumbling for change, they have an IC card called PASPY that you can charge with up to 20,000 yen (or $200) and then just touch and go. you can also use PASPY on buses run by hiroden too!
plus trains usually come by at least every 10 minutes, and most stops will let you know the estimated arrival time of the next train, or at least which train is coming next.
these trains are essential for people like me who a) don't have a license, b) can't afford a car AND a parking spot in the city, c) want to lower their carbon footprint (my carbon footprint must be non-existent at this point). it's also a major mode of transportation for the morning and evening commute, not to mention for tourists, since it runs right up alongside of the peace memorial park and atomic dome site.
one of the newest trains, the piccola/piccolo series, decorates the outside for things like christmas, valentines day, and tanabata (summer star festival). for tanabata, they even go so far as to decorate the inside too, with stars and origami bamboo, along with wishes written by local kindergarteners. hmm...guess i should explain tanabata too, huh? it's the story of a girl (orihime) and boy (hikoboshi). orihime is a weaver, and she is very skilled at her job, i mean, she's crazy about weaving. hikoboshi is a farmer, and he's rather diligent as well. the two fall in love and get married and are indeed, very happy. however, orihime starts to loose her passion for weaving -- in fact, she stops altogether. her father gets angry about this and breaks up the happy couple, allowing them to meet only once a year (july 7).
this once-a-year meeting is even recreated using streetcars (there's a hikoboshi piccolo and an orihime piccola) -- the two cars "meet" at the atomic bomb dome station every summer. the event is held every year for the city's kindergarteners, who help to decorate the inside of the cars. little events like these just make it fun to live in hiroshima -- plus you get to see a different side of your everyday streetcars.
below are some examples of streetcars in hiroshima -- note: i don't own these pictures, i'm just borrowing them from the web.
these are one of the best ways to get around the city -- i don't know what i'd do without them!
hiroshima is a city of romen densha, or streetcars.
in fact, it's one of the few remaining cities with streetcars, as well as having the widest network. the trains run from hiroshima station, all the way out to miyajima, and branching out in all four directions.
the streetcars are run by hiroshima dentetsu, affectionately referred to as "hiroden" -- the hiroshima electric train company. there are 26 different types of streetcars, many of them older and retired streetcars from other cities that have been fixed up by hiroshima, that run on 9 different lines. it costs a flat-fare of 160 yen (for adults -- that's about $1.60), so no matter where you ride, the price doesn't change. convenient, right? for those who don't like fumbling for change, they have an IC card called PASPY that you can charge with up to 20,000 yen (or $200) and then just touch and go. you can also use PASPY on buses run by hiroden too!
plus trains usually come by at least every 10 minutes, and most stops will let you know the estimated arrival time of the next train, or at least which train is coming next.
these trains are essential for people like me who a) don't have a license, b) can't afford a car AND a parking spot in the city, c) want to lower their carbon footprint (my carbon footprint must be non-existent at this point). it's also a major mode of transportation for the morning and evening commute, not to mention for tourists, since it runs right up alongside of the peace memorial park and atomic dome site.
one of the newest trains, the piccola/piccolo series, decorates the outside for things like christmas, valentines day, and tanabata (summer star festival). for tanabata, they even go so far as to decorate the inside too, with stars and origami bamboo, along with wishes written by local kindergarteners. hmm...guess i should explain tanabata too, huh? it's the story of a girl (orihime) and boy (hikoboshi). orihime is a weaver, and she is very skilled at her job, i mean, she's crazy about weaving. hikoboshi is a farmer, and he's rather diligent as well. the two fall in love and get married and are indeed, very happy. however, orihime starts to loose her passion for weaving -- in fact, she stops altogether. her father gets angry about this and breaks up the happy couple, allowing them to meet only once a year (july 7).
this once-a-year meeting is even recreated using streetcars (there's a hikoboshi piccolo and an orihime piccola) -- the two cars "meet" at the atomic bomb dome station every summer. the event is held every year for the city's kindergarteners, who help to decorate the inside of the cars. little events like these just make it fun to live in hiroshima -- plus you get to see a different side of your everyday streetcars.
↑↑↑ decorated for tanabata ↑↑↑
below are some examples of streetcars in hiroshima -- note: i don't own these pictures, i'm just borrowing them from the web.
these are one of the best ways to get around the city -- i don't know what i'd do without them!
2014年8月20日水曜日
review: momiji-an summer wagashi line-up
review: momiji-an summer wagashi line-up
momiji-an is a delightful little wagashi-ya in sakai-machi (naka-ku, hiroshima city). after undergoing a major renovation in may, the small, but well-known japanese confectionary has launched quite a few new wagashi standards, as well as new limited edition summer wagashi.
i tried two new ohagi (tomato, roasted corn, respectively), as well as the annual pione daifuku.
first, ohagi.
for those unfamiliar with these little guys, ohagi is chewy mochi rice ("glutinous rice" -- what?), wrapped in anko, a lightly sweetened red bean paste (smooth or chunky, depending on preference). it can also be the opposite --- anko wrapped in mochi rice. either way, these rounded treats are have just the right amount of sweet and salty and, of course, go great with tea.
which brings me to the first summer ohagi -- tomato ohagi.
i know, tomato?! what? how does that -- no, no ---
trust me, i know. i was skeptical too. the light red colouring, the little shiso leaf for a stem.
okay, it's adorable, i'm not gonna lie.
but how does it taste?
surprisingly good. it's like they mixed tomato juice into the shiro-an (white anko made of white beans) that surrounds the mochi rice. it's got just the right amount of tomato flavor and salt to make it more a snack than a dessert. tomato lovers will definitely dig the fresh tomato flavour too.
next we move on to (brace yourself) roasted corn ohagi.
this one is an example of mochi rice surrounding anko variety --- kernels of roased corn, lightly buttered and seasoned with soy sauce dot the surface of the mochi rice with a chunky anko (tsubu-an) center. i'll be honest, i was really, really skeptical anout this one until i finally took a bite.
it's crazy how well these ingediants go together. the saltiness of the corn brings out the sweetness of the anko and the chewy mochi rice goes great with texture of roast corn. who'da thought, right?
last we have the annual summer favorite, pione daifuku.
pione, pronounced pee-oh-nay, is a brand of grapes grown in miyoshi city (nothern part of hiroshima prefecture). these dark purple (and very expensive) grapes are often given as gifts and are very, very sweet.
daifuku, for those unaware, are little rounds of anko wrapped in pounded mochi rice (a.k.a mochi).
put the two together and you get one large pione grape wrapped in lightly sweeted smooth anko (koshi-an) wrapped again in mochi. the soft and chewy mochi goes great with the juicy pione center, and the koshi-an does a great job bringing them both together.
if you're in the mood for some non-traditional wagashi, then i would definitely recommend these summer confections!
2014年8月19日火曜日
youshoku
youshoku 【洋食】
it means "western foods" -- which is a term that might be somewhat confusing.
western? what, like what cowboys eat?
...chili?
what i should say is that it means "western-style japanese food" ---
okay, that probably doesn't help clear anything up.
let me try again.
youshoku is a broad term used to describe foods that aren't originally japanese in origin (i.e. came from europe or america). so for example, french cuisine. that's considered youshoku. but here's the tricky part -- youshoku has become so ingrained in japanese culture that they started to put their own spin on it, creating these foods that they don't have in europe or america, but are still lumped into the youshoku catagory, like omurice.
still with me?
okay, good.
some classic examples of youshoku are:
hamburg steak 【ハンバーグ】
omurice 【オムライス】
you-fuu curry 【洋風カレー】
steak 【ステーキ】
fried shrimp (oysters, etc) 【エビフライ、カキフライなど】
stews (tongue, cream, beef) 【タンシチュー、クリームシチューなど】
pilaf 【ピアフ】
parfait 【パフェ】
napolitan spaghetti 【ナポリタン】
hayashi rice 【ハヤシライス】
chicken escaloppe 【チキンエスカロップ】
sandwiches 【サンド】
i'm probably leaving out a lot of others, but these are pretty much the core of youshoku culture. while things like pilaf and steak are easy to understand, things like hamburg steak, omurice, napolitan, hayashi rice... not so much. that's because these are those tricky japanized versions of western foods, or foods that the japanese simply created with western ingredients.
let's start with hamburg steak -- this is basically a hamburger patty (ground beef, onions, nutmeg, salt, pepper, eggs, possibly some bread crumbs or panko) served on its own, often with a demi-glace sauce.
oh, should i explain demi-glace? some of you may know about this wonderful sauce, but for those who do not -- it's like a beef gravy made from the marrow of cow bones, vegetables, red wine, and beef stock. it's a rich, auburn-brown sauce that is pretty essential for youshoku.
this is hamburg steak, smothered appropriately in demi-glace.
ah, gyuu-suji hayashi... melt-in-your-mouth meat with gelatinous and gooey tendons... it's a beautiful thing.
it means "western foods" -- which is a term that might be somewhat confusing.
western? what, like what cowboys eat?
...chili?
what i should say is that it means "western-style japanese food" ---
okay, that probably doesn't help clear anything up.
let me try again.
youshoku is a broad term used to describe foods that aren't originally japanese in origin (i.e. came from europe or america). so for example, french cuisine. that's considered youshoku. but here's the tricky part -- youshoku has become so ingrained in japanese culture that they started to put their own spin on it, creating these foods that they don't have in europe or america, but are still lumped into the youshoku catagory, like omurice.
still with me?
okay, good.
some classic examples of youshoku are:
hamburg steak 【ハンバーグ】
omurice 【オムライス】
you-fuu curry 【洋風カレー】
steak 【ステーキ】
fried shrimp (oysters, etc) 【エビフライ、カキフライなど】
stews (tongue, cream, beef) 【タンシチュー、クリームシチューなど】
pilaf 【ピアフ】
parfait 【パフェ】
napolitan spaghetti 【ナポリタン】
hayashi rice 【ハヤシライス】
chicken escaloppe 【チキンエスカロップ】
sandwiches 【サンド】
i'm probably leaving out a lot of others, but these are pretty much the core of youshoku culture. while things like pilaf and steak are easy to understand, things like hamburg steak, omurice, napolitan, hayashi rice... not so much. that's because these are those tricky japanized versions of western foods, or foods that the japanese simply created with western ingredients.
let's start with hamburg steak -- this is basically a hamburger patty (ground beef, onions, nutmeg, salt, pepper, eggs, possibly some bread crumbs or panko) served on its own, often with a demi-glace sauce.
oh, should i explain demi-glace? some of you may know about this wonderful sauce, but for those who do not -- it's like a beef gravy made from the marrow of cow bones, vegetables, red wine, and beef stock. it's a rich, auburn-brown sauce that is pretty essential for youshoku.
this is hamburg steak, smothered appropriately in demi-glace.
moving right along to omurice. this is a mash-up of the words "omelette" and "rice", which should give you an indication as to the identity of this delightful dish.
that's right. it's an omelette and rice. together.
the rice part is white rice or butter rice (jeez, that's another youshoku thing! white rice that's steamed together with butter, chicken stock, and bay leaf) that is sauteed with chicken (or ham in really old-school places) and sometimes onions and/or mushrooms, and finally ketchup is mixed in at the end until it's a nice orange colour. this is called chicken rice (and yeah, that's another youshoku thing).
what you do next determines what style of omurice it's going to be. there are two styles of omurice at current: classic and dandelion (tanpopo).
if you wrap the chicken rice up in a thin sheet of egg, that's classic.
if you put a lightly scrambled omelette on top, that's dandelion. the name dandelion comes from the way it's eaten: the top layer of the omelette is cut open, revealing a runny, fluffy center that folds over the rice, creating what looks like a yellow dandelion on the plate.
both are traditionally topped with ketchup and eaten with a spoon. however, there has been a move away from the ketchup tradition, and most places top theirs with demi-glace instead.
napolitan spaghetti is a pasta dish that has in interesting back story. first, on to the explanation. it's a simple dish consisting of thick spaghetti and ketchup, sauteed together with onions, ham/bacon, and green peppers, and topped with parmesean cheese. this is a staple at kissaten as well, but has recently gained popularity once again in the realm of youshoku.
there are many conflicting stories as to who actually came up with the dish, but mostly all stories point to the same thing. they had a lot of pasta, but no tomato sauce. on the other hand, they had ketchup. so one day, the cook sautees the cooked spaghetti with ketchup and voila, napolitan is born! the name "napolitan" comes from the italian town of napoli, famous for tomatoes.
this is a classic example of napolitan.
finally, we get to hayashi rice. the name supposedly comes from the words "hashed rice" which...i gotta say, doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, but bear with me.
the dish is composed of thinly sliced beef and mushrooms in a demi-glace based sauce. it's served over rice, like japanese curry. often red wine and onions are also added to this rich, almost beef stew like dish. there are variations to this as well -- using beef tongue (gyuu-tan) or beef tendons (gyuu-suji) instead of thinly sliced beef (in fact, you see gyuu-tan ALOT in youshoku, such as tongue stew -- delicious, mind you, just time-consuming to do right).
finally, we get to hayashi rice. the name supposedly comes from the words "hashed rice" which...i gotta say, doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, but bear with me.
the dish is composed of thinly sliced beef and mushrooms in a demi-glace based sauce. it's served over rice, like japanese curry. often red wine and onions are also added to this rich, almost beef stew like dish. there are variations to this as well -- using beef tongue (gyuu-tan) or beef tendons (gyuu-suji) instead of thinly sliced beef (in fact, you see gyuu-tan ALOT in youshoku, such as tongue stew -- delicious, mind you, just time-consuming to do right).
ah, gyuu-suji hayashi... melt-in-your-mouth meat with gelatinous and gooey tendons... it's a beautiful thing.
so i suppose you're starting to see a trend? the use of ketchup or demi-glace = youshoku.
if it's got demi-glace, it's fairly safe to assume you're eating youshoku. the same can be said for tartar sauce (served with fried shrimp and fried oysters), and for things sauteed with ketchup. but see, here's the thing: not many non-japanese are familiar with demi-glace. it's a classic french sauce, no doubt, just likely not used all that often outside of france (correct me if i'm wrong). be that as it may, it's a cornerstone of japanese youshoku and the pride of chefs at youshoku-ya or western restaurants. demi-glace sauce is often something that has been made in the tsugitashi style, which means that they'll use half and then make another half, use half, make another half and keep mixing the older flavors with newer ones, creating a richer, more flavorful demi. these sauces can have origins up to 40 or even 50 years, if that shows the dedication chefs show to the sauce.
so the next time you're in japan, try the sushi, the sashimi, tenpura, and the whole nine yards of traditional japanese foods, but also be sure to check out some youshoku too! because in all honesty, it's pretty much just as japanese as the sushi.
2014年8月17日日曜日
konbini
konbini 【コンビニ】
oh konbini.
oh konbini.
you're on practically every corner of this city ー okay, of this country ー and i miss you when i'm not in japan.
the home of delicious limited edition snacks. of piping hot nikuman and oden in the winter. of alcohol and premium coffee. of bento and breads and desserts.
oh konbini! you're there when i'm dying of thirst in the summer. you're there at 2 am when i'm drunk and looking for some instant ramen. you're there when i'm looking for concert tickets. and you're there to hold my packages.
they hold the sum of japan within their walls ー truly remarkable as most konbini aren't even that big.
the major konbini here in hiroshima are:
☆ family mart (or famima)
☆ seven eleven (or sebun)
☆ lawson
☆ sunkus (or circle K)
☆ poplar (poplar isn't a HUGE national chain like the top 4 here -- they also make their own rice in-store for their bento, so you get warm fluffy rice when you buy them and it makes ALL the difference)
☆ daily yamazaki (owned by the yamazaki bread company)
☆ coco! (they have fresh baked breads in-store -- YUM!)
biggest brand names are definitely those top 4 though. you can probably find them anywhere in japan.
interestingly enough, the nickname for seven eleven is different in the kansai area than for hiroshima. they call it sebu-ire, taking the first two letters of the japanese for seven eleven, which is sebun-irebun. fun!
the major konbini here in hiroshima are:
☆ family mart (or famima)
☆ seven eleven (or sebun)
☆ lawson
☆ sunkus (or circle K)
☆ poplar (poplar isn't a HUGE national chain like the top 4 here -- they also make their own rice in-store for their bento, so you get warm fluffy rice when you buy them and it makes ALL the difference)
☆ daily yamazaki (owned by the yamazaki bread company)
☆ coco! (they have fresh baked breads in-store -- YUM!)
biggest brand names are definitely those top 4 though. you can probably find them anywhere in japan.
interestingly enough, the nickname for seven eleven is different in the kansai area than for hiroshima. they call it sebu-ire, taking the first two letters of the japanese for seven eleven, which is sebun-irebun. fun!
here's a list of all the things you can do (that i know of, anyway) at konbini:
★ mail stuff! packages, nengajou (new years cards), letters, takkyubin, etc
★ buy concert/event tickets
★ buy magazines
★ buy porny magazines
★ pay your bills (gas, electricity...etc)
★ buy cigarettes
★ buy alcohol -- from canned chu-hi to bottles of wine and whiskey and nihonshu, look no further for your alcoholic needs
★ make copies
★ print pictures
★ get soft serve (at least you can at sunkus)
★ buy basic toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, face wash, bath salts, etc)
★ buy basic make-up
★ buy stockings, shirts (not at all of them, but some)
★ get ready-made (cold) food! bento, onigiri, oden, pasta, noodles, salads, sandwiches, side dishes (potato salad, simmered veggies, etc), breads, gyoza, and much more. don't worry, they'll heat it up for you too!
★ get instant ramen! of like every variety! and there are a LOT!
★ get ice cream
★ get dessert! HUGE trend in konbini nowadays is uchi-cafe or "cafe at home" which means slightly nicer quality private-brand (PB) desserts that you take home and eat (rather than going to a cafe) -- uchi-cafe is actually a lawson brand, but other konbini are ALL doing it now (sunkus is cherie dolce, family mart has sweets＋,poplar has the hito tema series, and seven eleven doesn't have a brand name for it, but they're all over it too)
★ get money! you can find ATMs at nearly all konbini lately
★ get pens and paper and other things stationary
★ buy shuugi-bukuro and fushuugi-bukuro -- these are envelopes specifically for money given on occasions such as weddings, celebrations, having a child, or funerals
★ get energy drinks! millions of them! (and anti-hangover drinks)
★ buy laundry detergent, dish soap, and other cleaning products
★ get fresh ground coffee (and other cafe drinks!) -- this is also like the latest thing
★ buy CANDY! because that's half the fun of konbini! seasonal stuff and new line ups come in about every month, so it's really fun to browse
★ NIKUMAN! ...need i say more? these warm, fluffy buns are usually filled with ground beef and veggies, but they have a lot of different varieties like pizza-man, curry-man, chashu-man...oh, and only during the fall/winter months
★ get fireworks -- only during the summer months, but hey! fireworks!
★ get hot ready-made food! fried chicken, hot dogs, fries, menchi katsu, korokke, oden... selection varies depending on the konbini
★ get frozen food! pizzas, pastas, udon, takoyaki, ice cream, you name it!
★ buy fresh produce -- not at all konbini, mind you, but at some you can find vegetables and fruits as well as eggs, tofu, etc
★ get drinks! i'm talking non-alcoholic here -- teas (green, black, red, sweetened, unsweetened, etc), coffee (lots of coffee; mostly in cans), fruit juices, smoothies, yogurt drinks, sports drinks, water, sodas, milk...
see? SEE?? you can do everything! and i probably haven't even listed it all!
if you're one of those people who really love going to the grocery store and browsing (like me) then you'll LOVE konbini. but they are kinda dangerous on an empty stomach (much like the grocery store).
most major konbini also have their own kind of point card/prepaid card for quick and easy payment. in a cash society, fumbling for change while you're in a hurry isn't much fun -- so they have cards that you put money onto and then use for payment at the register. cards can be charged at any of their store locations and you also get points for every X amount of yen you spend. these points can be converted into actual yen.
for example, seven eleven's nanaco card gives you 1 point for every 100 yen you spend (so like 1 point for every dollar) and you can turn 1 point into 1 yen, so if i have 400 points, i can use them as 400 yen (so 1 point can be turned into a penny). i know it sounds kinda piddly, i mean 100 yen for 1 point, and that point only gets me 1 yen? but seriously, these ADD UP. especially if you're in the habit of going to konbini daily like...all of japan is. you can also earn points at other affiliated stores too. japan LOVES point cards -- i really need to post about that, too. but usually they're free or very minimum cost to join, and are really worth it if you're a heavy user.
oh konbini... what would we do without you?
i hope i never have to find out.
★ mail stuff! packages, nengajou (new years cards), letters, takkyubin, etc
★ buy concert/event tickets
★ buy magazines
★ buy porny magazines
★ pay your bills (gas, electricity...etc)
★ buy cigarettes
★ buy alcohol -- from canned chu-hi to bottles of wine and whiskey and nihonshu, look no further for your alcoholic needs
★ make copies
★ print pictures
★ get soft serve (at least you can at sunkus)
★ buy basic toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, face wash, bath salts, etc)
★ buy basic make-up
★ buy stockings, shirts (not at all of them, but some)
★ get ready-made (cold) food! bento, onigiri, oden, pasta, noodles, salads, sandwiches, side dishes (potato salad, simmered veggies, etc), breads, gyoza, and much more. don't worry, they'll heat it up for you too!
★ get instant ramen! of like every variety! and there are a LOT!
★ get ice cream
★ get dessert! HUGE trend in konbini nowadays is uchi-cafe or "cafe at home" which means slightly nicer quality private-brand (PB) desserts that you take home and eat (rather than going to a cafe) -- uchi-cafe is actually a lawson brand, but other konbini are ALL doing it now (sunkus is cherie dolce, family mart has sweets＋,poplar has the hito tema series, and seven eleven doesn't have a brand name for it, but they're all over it too)
★ get money! you can find ATMs at nearly all konbini lately
★ get pens and paper and other things stationary
★ buy shuugi-bukuro and fushuugi-bukuro -- these are envelopes specifically for money given on occasions such as weddings, celebrations, having a child, or funerals
★ get energy drinks! millions of them! (and anti-hangover drinks)
★ buy laundry detergent, dish soap, and other cleaning products
★ get fresh ground coffee (and other cafe drinks!) -- this is also like the latest thing
★ buy CANDY! because that's half the fun of konbini! seasonal stuff and new line ups come in about every month, so it's really fun to browse
★ NIKUMAN! ...need i say more? these warm, fluffy buns are usually filled with ground beef and veggies, but they have a lot of different varieties like pizza-man, curry-man, chashu-man...oh, and only during the fall/winter months
★ get fireworks -- only during the summer months, but hey! fireworks!
★ get hot ready-made food! fried chicken, hot dogs, fries, menchi katsu, korokke, oden... selection varies depending on the konbini
★ get frozen food! pizzas, pastas, udon, takoyaki, ice cream, you name it!
★ buy fresh produce -- not at all konbini, mind you, but at some you can find vegetables and fruits as well as eggs, tofu, etc
★ get drinks! i'm talking non-alcoholic here -- teas (green, black, red, sweetened, unsweetened, etc), coffee (lots of coffee; mostly in cans), fruit juices, smoothies, yogurt drinks, sports drinks, water, sodas, milk...
see? SEE?? you can do everything! and i probably haven't even listed it all!
if you're one of those people who really love going to the grocery store and browsing (like me) then you'll LOVE konbini. but they are kinda dangerous on an empty stomach (much like the grocery store).
most major konbini also have their own kind of point card/prepaid card for quick and easy payment. in a cash society, fumbling for change while you're in a hurry isn't much fun -- so they have cards that you put money onto and then use for payment at the register. cards can be charged at any of their store locations and you also get points for every X amount of yen you spend. these points can be converted into actual yen.
for example, seven eleven's nanaco card gives you 1 point for every 100 yen you spend (so like 1 point for every dollar) and you can turn 1 point into 1 yen, so if i have 400 points, i can use them as 400 yen (so 1 point can be turned into a penny). i know it sounds kinda piddly, i mean 100 yen for 1 point, and that point only gets me 1 yen? but seriously, these ADD UP. especially if you're in the habit of going to konbini daily like...all of japan is. you can also earn points at other affiliated stores too. japan LOVES point cards -- i really need to post about that, too. but usually they're free or very minimum cost to join, and are really worth it if you're a heavy user.
oh konbini... what would we do without you?
i hope i never have to find out.
2014年8月15日金曜日
rei-dioactive
figure there's no excuse not to have a blog.
not with smartphones and instagram.
not since living like 7 years in hiroshima.
i'm not gonna lie. i went through this HUGE anti-english phase. i felt like i had to prove myself, i guess. i dunno.
but the phase ended when i rediscovered my chemical romance (don't) and the fandom with it.
MCR made me remember why english was fun ー the fans hit that point home.
on my recent trip home, i was reminded even more about why i love english and i got to thinking, why not start writing about life in hiroshima, a town that surely everyone has heard of, but few get even a glance at.
it's likely a misunderstood place, too. but there is so much more to hiroshima than atomic bombs. there's an entire prefecture ー hiroshima doesn't end in the city. it is surrounded by mountains, nay guarded by them, and enclosed in the south by the seto inland sea. earthquakes are rare. hiroshima city is cut into pieces by rivers and united by bridges.
not too big, not too small. perfect for those who lack a sense of direction, like me.
so consider this blog a small introduction to hiroshima, and to my life there.
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